Kitchen Plumbing

Kitchen Sink Clogs and Slow Drains

Most kitchen clogs build slowly. Grease, coffee grounds, rice and bits of food coat the inside of the drain a little at a time until the sink starts holding water after every use. By the time it backs up completely, the blockage is usually past the trap and into the branch line in the wall.

Where the clog usually sits

If only one side of a double bowl sink is backing up, the problem is often in the trap or the tailpiece on that side. If both sides are slow, or water comes up in one bowl when the other drains, the blockage is further down. When the dishwasher also starts leaving standing water, that points to the shared drain line rather than the dishwasher itself.

What we do

We clear the line, check the trap and fittings for leaks while we’re under there, and let you know if we see signs of a bigger issue like a sagging pipe or a line that’s been packed with grease for years. Repeated clogs that keep coming back are worth a closer look through our drain cleaning service. If several fixtures in the house are backing up at once, the problem may be in the main line, and that’s a job for our sewer line repair service.

Garbage Disposal Problems and What You Can Check Safely

A disposal that stops working usually tells you what’s wrong by the sound it makes, or doesn’t make. Before you reach for anything, turn the disposal off at the wall switch. If you can, unplug it under the sink or shut off the breaker. Never put your hand inside the unit.

It hums but doesn’t spin

Humming means the motor is getting power but the flywheel is stuck, usually on a bone, fruit pit, utensil or bottle cap. Don’t keep flipping the switch, because that heats the motor and can trip its internal overload. Many disposals have a hex socket in the center of the bottom of the unit. With the power off, a hex key (often a 1/4 inch Allen wrench, and some units come with one) can be worked back and forth to free the flywheel. Once it turns freely, use tongs or pliers with a flashlight to pull out whatever was jamming it.

It’s completely dead

No hum at all usually means the unit’s thermal overload tripped. Look for a small red button on the bottom of the disposal and press it. If it pops back out or won’t stay in, give it a few minutes to cool and try again. If there’s still nothing, check the breaker. If power is reaching the outlet and the disposal still won’t respond, the motor or switch may be done. We work with the existing outlet and switch. Wiring problems belong to an electrician.

It’s leaking

Where the water shows up tells you a lot. A leak at the top usually means the sink flange putty or mounting ring has let go. A leak at the side can be the dishwasher inlet or the discharge tube gasket. A leak from the bottom of the unit itself usually means the housing has corroded through internally, and that means replacement.

Garbage Disposal Replacement and Sizing

Disposals don’t last forever, and once the inside starts leaking there’s no fixing it. We replace units, install disposals in kitchens that never had one, and swap out undersized units that can’t keep up.

Choosing a size

Residential disposals are commonly sold in 1/3, 1/2, 3/4 and 1 horsepower models. A smaller unit can be fine for a light-use kitchen or a condo. Bigger households that cook a lot tend to do better with 3/4 or 1 HP, which grind finer and jam less. Stepping up in size can also mean a taller unit, so we check that it will clear the trap and still let the drain slope properly.

Continuous feed vs. batch feed

Most disposals are continuous feed and run off a wall switch. Batch feed models only run when a stopper is set in place, so they can be an option where adding a switch isn’t practical. Either way, the unit needs an existing outlet or hardwire connection under the sink. If there isn’t one, you’ll need an electrician to add it before we install.

The dishwasher knockout plug

New disposals have a knockout plug in the dishwasher inlet. If a dishwasher drains into the disposal, that plug has to be knocked out and the loose piece removed from the grinding chamber. Skip that step and the dishwasher can’t drain. It’s one of the most common problems we see after a DIY disposal swap.

Garbage Disposals and Septic Systems

Plenty of homes in Southwest Florida are on septic. A disposal can work with a septic system, but it changes how the tank fills. Ground food adds solids, and those solids settle in the tank instead of washing away.

• Expect the tank to need pumping more often if you use a disposal regularly.
• Scrape plates into the trash or compost first and use the disposal for small leftover bits.
• Keep grease and oil out of the drain entirely. It’s hard on any drain and especially hard on a septic system.
• Some manufacturers make models marketed for septic use. They don’t change the basic math of more solids going into the tank.

If you’re on septic and thinking about adding a disposal, talk to us first and check with your septic service about how it may affect your pumping schedule.

Kitchen Faucets: Drips, Low Flow and Replacements

A kitchen faucet gets turned on and off more times a day than almost anything in the house. Most problems come down to a worn cartridge, a clogged aerator or a tired pull-down hose.

Drips and handle problems

Most modern single-handle kitchen faucets use a cartridge. When the seals inside wear, you get a drip from the spout, a handle that’s stiff or loose, or trouble getting the temperature right. Replacing the cartridge with the correct part for that brand and model often fixes it. On an older faucet where parts are hard to find, replacing the faucet usually makes more sense.

Low flow

If the faucet used to run strong and now trickles, start at the aerator or the spray head. Mineral scale and small debris collect there, especially after any work on the water lines. If cleaning it doesn’t help, the cartridge or supply line may be restricted, or a shutoff valve under the sink may not be opening fully.

Pull-down and pull-out hoses

Pull-down hoses wear where they bend and rub. A leak under the sink every time the faucet runs is often the hose or its quick-connect fitting. Also check the counterweight. If it’s slid off or sits in the wrong spot, the spray head won’t retract properly.

Replacing a faucet

We’ll match the new faucet to the number of holes in your sink or counter, replace old shutoff valves if they’re corroded or won’t close, and put in new supply lines. If you’re adding a soap dispenser or filter faucet that needs an extra hole, that hole has to be cut by your countertop fabricator. We don’t do countertop work.

Under-Sink Leaks

Leaks under the kitchen sink are easy to miss until the cabinet floor swells or you find a soft spot. Check under there every few months with a flashlight. A small drip caught early is a cheap repair.

Supply lines and shutoffs

Braided stainless supply lines are standard for faucets and dishwashers, but they don’t last forever. Look for rust spots, kinks, bulges or frayed braid. Old plastic lines and older shutoff valves that haven’t been turned in years are common failure points. If a valve won’t shut off when you need it to, it’s time to replace it.

P-traps and drain fittings

Slip nuts on the trap and tailpiece loosen over time, and plastic traps can crack if they get bumped by whatever’s stored in the cabinet. A wet trap after you run the sink is usually a quick fix. Water that shows up only when the dishwasher runs points to that connection instead.

Leaks you can’t see

If the floor near the sink is damp, the cabinet smells musty, or your water bill jumps and nothing is visibly leaking, the problem may be in the wall or slab. Our leak detection service can track it down without tearing out more than we need to. Homes with repeated pinhole leaks in old pipe may be better served by whole-house repiping.

Dishwasher Installation Plumbing

A dishwasher needs three things: a hot water supply, a drain connection, and power. We handle the water and drain side. The dishwasher should plug into or hardwire to an existing circuit. If a new circuit is needed, that’s work for an electrician.

Water supply

Most dishwashers connect to the hot water line under the sink through a dual-outlet valve or a tee, then run a braided line to the unit. We make sure there’s a dedicated shutoff so you can turn off the dishwasher without shutting off the whole kitchen.

Drain connection

The drain hose ties into either the disposal inlet or a dishwasher tailpiece on the sink drain. If you’re installing a new disposal at the same time, the knockout plug has to come out first.

Air gap or high loop

The drain has to be protected so dirty sink water can’t siphon back into the dishwasher. That’s done one of two ways. An air gap is a small fitting mounted at the sink or counter that creates a physical break in the drain line. A high loop routes the drain hose up to the underside of the countertop before it drops down to the drain connection. Which one is required depends on the code your local jurisdiction enforces and on the dishwasher manufacturer’s instructions. We set it up to meet both.

Refrigerator and Ice Maker Water Lines

Refrigerator water lines are small, but they run behind a heavy appliance that gets pushed back against the wall. A slow leak back there can soak the subfloor or baseboard for weeks before anyone notices.

Plastic tubing vs. braided lines

Thin plastic tubing is still common on older installs. It can crack, get pinched when the fridge is moved, or pull loose at the fitting. Saddle valves that pierce the pipe are another weak spot. We typically replace these with a proper shutoff and a braided stainless line that’s more resistant to kinking and damage.

Signs of a leak

• Water pooling at the front or sides of the fridge with no ice or door spill to explain it.
• Warped flooring or stained baseboards near the refrigerator.
• An ice maker that stops making ice or makes small, hollow cubes.
• A musty smell behind the fridge.

We run new lines and install outlet boxes for refrigerator hookups. We don’t repair the refrigerator or ice maker itself. If the leak is inside the appliance, you’ll need an appliance repair company.

Water Filtration Connections

Under-sink filters, including reverse osmosis systems, are a popular addition in Southwest Florida kitchens. We handle the plumbing connections so the system has a proper supply, a proper drain and no leaks.

How an under-sink RO system connects

• A cold water feed, usually through a tee adapter at the shutoff valve.
• A drain saddle on the sink drain above the trap for the system’s wastewater.
• A storage tank in the cabinet on most tank-style systems.
• A separate filtered water faucet, which needs its own hole in the sink or countertop.

RO systems send some water to the drain as part of normal operation, so the drain connection has to be right. We also check that everything fits in the cabinet alongside the disposal, trap and dishwasher lines. Space gets tight fast. We can also run a filtered line to the refrigerator if you want filtered water at the dispenser.

Kitchen Remodel Plumbing

If you’re changing the kitchen layout, the plumbing needs to be planned early, before cabinets are ordered. Moving a sink even a few feet can mean moving drain lines under the slab or in the wall, and that affects the schedule. Our plumbing renovations work covers kitchens and bathroom plumbing projects alike.

Moving the sink

The drain needs proper slope back to the main line, and the sink needs a vent. On many Southwest Florida slab homes, relocating a sink means cutting the slab to reroute the drain. We’ll walk the space with you and tell you what the move involves before you commit to the layout.

Sink types

Undermount, drop-in and farmhouse sinks all mount differently, and a deep sink or a low-divide double bowl can change where the drain outlet sits. That affects trap height and whether a disposal fits underneath. Bring us the sink spec sheet during planning so the rough-in lines up.

Island sinks and venting

An island sink doesn’t have a wall behind it to run a standard vent. Codes allow a few approaches for island fixtures, including special island vent configurations and, where the local code permits it, an air admittance valve installed under the sink. What’s allowed varies, so we design the island drain and vent to meet the code that applies to your property.

Pot fillers

A pot filler is a wall-mounted faucet over the cooktop, usually on a cold water line. It doesn’t need a drain, but it does need a water line run inside the wall to that spot, and a shutoff that can be reached. That line has to go in before drywall and backsplash.

Second prep sinks

A bar or prep sink needs its own supply, drain and vent, just like the main sink. Adding one to an island is common, and it’s much easier to plan during the remodel than after. We coordinate with your contractor and cabinet installer on rough-in locations, and our new construction plumbing service covers kitchens in new homes. If your water heater is near the end of its life, a remodel is also a good time to look at water heater replacement or a tankless water heater.

Commercial Kitchen Plumbing

Restaurants, cafes and other food service kitchens deal with a lot more grease and a lot more volume than a home kitchen. Grease buildup in the drain lines is the most common source of backups, and many commercial kitchens are required to have grease interceptors or traps that need regular service. We handle drain problems, sink and faucet work and fixture installations for businesses. See our commercial plumbing page for more.

Keeping Kitchen Drains Clear

Most kitchen drain problems are preventable. A few habits go a long way.

What not to put down the drain or disposal

• Grease, oil and fat. They go down as liquid and harden in the pipe.
• Coffee grounds and eggshells, which pack into a thick sludge.
• Rice, pasta and bread, which swell with water.
• Fibrous peels and stalks like celery, corn husks, onion skins and artichokes.
• Bones, fruit pits and shells.
• Anything that isn’t food, like twist ties, paper towels or labels.

Good habits

Run cold water before, during and for a few seconds after using the disposal. Scrape plates into the trash. Wipe greasy pans with a paper towel before washing them. Run the disposal regularly even if you don’t use it much, which helps keep parts moving. Avoid dumping harsh chemical drain cleaners into a line that’s already clogged. They often don’t clear the blockage and leave caustic water sitting in the pipe.

When to Call HomeFlow Plumbing

Some things are worth a quick check on your own. Resetting a disposal, cleaning an aerator or tightening a slip nut by hand are all fair game. Call us when:

• The sink keeps clogging or both bowls and the dishwasher back up together.
• You find water under the sink, behind the fridge or on the floor and can’t find the source.
• The disposal is leaking from the bottom or still won’t run after a reset.
• A shutoff valve won’t close.
• You’re installing a new dishwasher, disposal, faucet or filter system.
• You’re planning a remodel and need to move or add a sink.

We serve homeowners and businesses throughout Lee, Charlotte and Collier Counties, including Fort Myers, Cape Coral, Naples and Punta Gorda. Check our service areas for the full list. Call (239) 518-4198 or send a request through our contact form.